Retailers Energized at Milan Fashion Week

MILAN — Alessandro Michele’s first women’s collection at Gucci energized retailers, who praised the Milan collections generally for their craftsmanship and feminine, romantic touches. Also topping Milan’s talk-o-meter was Peter Dundas’ expected exit from Emilio Pucci — and his likely surfacing at Roberto Cavalli — even though neither company has said anything. Overall, spring’s Seventies trend remained strong, although there were touches of the Eighties in some collections, while lace, patchwork, Lurex and embellishments were other major touches. The collections most praised by retailers included Gucci, Prada, Fendi, Pucci, Marni and Etro. “All of the Milan designers are taking it up a notch and they’re redefining luxury for this new digital generation,” said Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction at Holt Renfrew, who labeled the season “retro futurism” and argued that the Internet is having a disruptive effect on fashion. “I feel like they’re speaking to a new customer,” she said, pointing especially to Michele at Gucci. “When we got into the showroom, it was absolutely stunning and speaking to this new generation.” Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus, said he was “excited about the new direction at Gucci,” describing the collection as “romantic and a bit melancholic,

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