VISVAS

Showing posts with label WWD » Paris Fashion Week: Things to Do. Show all posts

Tuesday, 3 March 2015

Paris Fashion Week: The Scene

YOUNG BLOOD: There’s a new jeweler on the storied Place Vendôme. Just over a year after launching her brand Dauphin during Paris Couture Week, Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld has opened a private showroom on the square that symbolizes excellence in fine jewelry. “In the beginning, to be quite honest, I was against the idea because I have a very innovative aesthetic and my approach was intentionally to shake up the codes of the traditional houses,” she said. Then she saw a 750-square-foot apartment, located at the end of a narrow inner courtyard and up a flight of stairs. “It was the perfect size for a little cocoon and I changed my mind. I thought it would be interesting, on the contrary, to be at the very heart of the tradition of French craftsmanship and to challenge the rules of this very closely guarded, privileged universe,” she added. Designed by Félix de Montesquiou of architecture firm DAS Studio, the showroom comprises two rooms featuring white walls with traditional molding offset by a dark cement floor. Lighter-colored cement was used to create backlit wall panels and rectangular blocks mounted with glass display cases. The Zenlike space provides the ideal backdrop for Dauphin’s elegant geometric designs, which

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Gallery, Boutique Hybrid To Launch in Los Angeles

CURATED RETAIL: Construction on Free Market — a shopping concept that’s one-part gallery and another part boutique experience — is set to begin this summer. The 10,000-square-foot space is part of Los Angeles developer The Ratkovich Company’s 1.8 million-square-foot mixed-use project The Bloc, which is under construction and set for a fall opening. CNTRLgroup, which was behind the Apolis and Alchemy Works stores in Los Angeles, is heading up the Free Market project. The concept is expected to be a space for large and small men’s and women’s apparel brands, home and food concepts among other businesses. Details on the tenants are expected in the coming months. It will be consistent with the overall vision of the Bloc, which developer Wayne Ratkovich described to WWD late last year as one that would offer visitors a “unique experience.” “Food will be important to the project. Fashion will be important to the project,” he said at the time. “We’re looking at this project as a place that people want to be. They want to visit. It is something that is attractive not just because there is a shop there or a shop here, but because of the experience when you come here.” Wingtip, which bills itself as a

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Sybilla Readies Her Comeback

PARIS — More voluptuous is coming back into fashion — and so is Sybilla, the Spanish designer who rose to fame in the Eighties with minimal yet organic fashion. On Tuesday, she was putting finishing touches on her showroom on Rue Beaurepaire, where she is selling her comeback collection for fall. “There’s a lot of research and creativity in the shapes, but they’re wearable clothes,” the shy designer said as she demonstrated how a capelike blouse could be worn four different ways. “The biggest compliment I can get is when people tell me they wear my clothes forever.” Sybilla hinted at a comeback two years ago when she attended a Hussein Chalayan show, which attracted a flurry of retailer inquiries. “It seems they had a good memory and they’re coming back,” she said. The designer said she’s lined up two factories in Spain — and reunited with a knitwear wizard in Milan — to produce the collection, which spans about 75 references ranging from slouchy pants to dresses and blouses with dramatic sleeves resembling calla lilies. There is also a range of coats and dresses in hand-felted wool produced by an in-house workshop. Wholesale prices are still being finalized, but are likely to range from

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Emily Current and Meritt Elliott Return to Denim

LOS ANGELES — Emily Current and Meritt Elliott are back to designing denim. Three years after departing Current/Elliott, which they cofounded with Serge Azria, following the expiration of a non-compete clause that prohibited them from creating jeans, they’re unveiling The Great Blue with half-a-dozen jean fits, as well as an array of jackets, shirts, dresses and overalls, all cut from denim. Their venture complements their contemporary sportswear brand, The Great, that arrived in Barneys New York, Ron Herman, Nordstrom, Shopbop.com and some 80 specialty stores last month. In The Great Blue, the stylists-turned-designers meld their fondness for vintage fashion and inspiration from “The Boxcar Children” book series with the current trend for distressed denim via 13 washes in shades of gray, black and dusty blue, aged with slight destruction. “We design denim to live as a part of our bigger collection. It’s not a stand-alone business,” Current said. “It’s one of the unifying categories that broaden your collection and get you into more stores.” For those expecting Elliott and Current to replicate the distressed boyfriend dungarees that put them on the map in 2008, the designers are surveying the denim market with a new point of view. In their inaugural fall collection, they’re cropping

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Luma Grothe Named L’Oréal Paris Spokesperson

FACE-FORWARD: L’Oréal Paris has named Brazilian model Luma Grothe as its newest spokeswoman, WWD has learned. “Fast-tracked to the fashion scene, Luma’s magnetic charisma combined with her dazzling, deep emerald eyes made her the trendiest up-and-coming model,” stated Cyril Chapuy, L’Oréal Paris brand global president. “She is the poster girl of a modern and multicultural vision of beauty, and we are so pleased to welcome her to the L’Oréal Paris family.” Indeed, Grothe is a one-woman melting pot, with German, Japanese and African ancestry. She moved to London when she was 16 for work from Joinville, a city in the southern region of Brazil, by way of São Paulo. Grothe’s international modeling career has sent her down the runways of labels such as Burberry, Vivienne Westwood and Dsquared2. She’s appeared on covers and in features of publications including Vs. Magazine, Vogue Italia, Grey Magazine, Elle and Glamour. The model has a strong penchant for social media, regularly tagging, posting and regramming. “I am very proud to represent such an inspirational brand. To me, ‘Because you’re worth it’ is even more than a legendary slogan I grew up with. It’s a motto that continues to resonate in my generation,” she stated, referring to the L’Oréal Paris

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Ellen Tracy Retools at 65

Ellen Tracy is celebrating its 65th anniversary with a new spring print campaign representing the “hyphenated” woman. While she’s still going to work, she’s no longer a 9-to-5 woman who goes to the office and then heads home. These days, the working woman has a multifaceted lifestyle that combines numerous roles. While the brand’s advertising roots once featured “supermodels” — Cindy Crawford, Christy Turlington, Carol Alt, to name a few — the new face of Ellen Tracy is Paula Patton, who juggles the roles of philanthropist, mother, actress, director and daughter. According to Jameel Spencer, chief marketing officer at Sequential Brands Group, which owns the brand, the hyphenation of women’s roles today also means a return to the brand’s “bridge” roots for styling. Rick Platt, Sequential’s group president, said that setting the fashion direction for the brand has involved working with its licensees. The major ones are G-III Apparel Group for coats and dresses, and GBG for sportswear. According to Platt, the focus has been on where the brand can “live and thrive,” even if that means a slightly lower positioning to the “better” tier at the department store level with corresponding price points. The bridge category has since been replaced by the

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

New Luxury Site Clique Chic Launches

NEW YORK — The latest luxury e-commerce destination is for members only — members looking to spend big bucks. Today will see the launch of Jessica Martino’s Clique Chic, a site billed by the eBay, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Vogue alum as an “online version of Bergdorf Goodman” that sells wares from designers such as Giambattista Valli, Derek Lam, Rochas and Peter Pilotto. She referenced the Fifth Avenue department store during an interview, noting that although Bergdorf’s sells online, the “history and experience that is world-renowned is not what you experience on their Web site.” “Luxe fashion online is no different than shopping for consumer electronics on Amazon,” Martino told WWD of her current take on the category in the digital space. “It’s [selling] luxury product using a mass-market approach.” For her, in order to provide a luxury experience in an online environment, customization is paramount. Upon arrival at cliquechic.com, the site asks potential members to fill out a detailed eight-question survey about their style, body type and size down to the brands in their closet, colors they dislike and fabrics they won’t wear. This allows a stylist from the e-tailer to create a customized experience for the potential member — including making

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Supreme Court Ruling Could Impact Internet Tax Status

WASHINGTON — The Supreme Court handed down a unanimous decision Tuesday allowing a retail association to challenge in federal court a Colorado sales-tax law. The law requires out-of-state retailers to notify Colorado customers of their sales-tax liability and report related information to consumers and state authorities at the end of each year. The case, Direct Marketing Association v. Brohl, could have implications for how states collect information on Internet and other remote sales. The DMA, which has members that sell to consumers in Colorado via catalogues, print advertising, broadcast media and the Internet, but do not collect sales taxes, sued Barbara Brohl, executive director of the Colorado Department of Revenue, in federal district court in Denver in 2010, alleging the state’s notification and reporting law violated the Commerce Clause of the U.S. Constitution. The district court ruled in favor of DMA and issued an injunction against Colorado’s reporting and notification requirements for out-of-state retailers. But the Tenth Circuit Court of Appeals in Denver reversed the lower court ruling in 2013 and held that the federal court did not have jurisdiction over the state’s tax laws. The Supreme Court reversed the appeals court decision on Tuesday. “In an effort to improve the collection of sales and

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Paris Designer Inspirations

Some found their muse in poetry, fragility and joie de vivre, while others took more elemental cues from geometry, energy and infinity.

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Jeff Gennette Outlines Macy’s Vision

Jeff Gennette, the president of Macy’s Inc., has a big wish list and a “purposeful” agenda. The Gennette prescription on how to grow the $28.1 billion department store chain entails being “maniacal” about digital growth, taking greater initiatives in wedding-related merchandise, improving the tabletop business and making “outsized” investments in men’s and women’s athletic and ath-leisure apparel and athletic footwear. Athleticwear is one category where Macy’s needs to catch up, Gennette suggested, but is stepping up the buy on such brands as Nike, Under Armour and Adidas. “When you look at Macy’s overall share in men’s and women’s apparel, we still retain a lower share in athletic apparel. We are really looking at whole active influence across all categories in the store.” He also wants to deepen customer loyalty and believes that one way to accomplish that is to make Macy’s selling floors more “experiential.” And as far as leased and licensed businesses, versus the traditional wholesale-retail business model, he’s open to all of it, if it brings in categories that Macy’s shoppers want and Macy’s may not carry. “We have a laundry list of categories [where] we believe the Macy’s brand is broad enough to bring into our stores with great credibility,” Gennette said. He

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Oscar de la Renta Retrospective Opens at Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco

AN OSCAR-WORTHY SHOW: The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco will stage the first major retrospective of Oscar de la Renta’s work through May 30. Presented in collaboration with the house of Oscar de la Renta and the designer’s family, the exhibition will feature more than 100 ensembles that were made over five decades. André Leon Talley, who paid tribute to the late designer with a considerably smaller exhibition at the Savannah College of Art & Design’s Museum of Art last month, will curate the exhibition in San Francisco. Talley said, “My goal is to highlight the extraordinary depth of Oscar’s creative aesthetic from his earliest designs for Jane Derby throughout the five decades of his remarkable career.” Colin B. Bailey, director of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, said of de la Renta, “His approach to design, informed by his broad culture and his studies in art history, displays an enduring classicism.”

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Neiman Marcus Adds to ‘Make Some Noise’ Campaign

NEIMAN’S PUMPS IT UP: Neiman Marcus Group is turning up the volume on its “Make Some Noise” campaign by incorporating more celebrities, advertising partners and fashion. The campaign, introduced last year, is geared to rouse women and spotlight individuals in technology, fashion, music, art, food and business who shake up the status quo in one way or another. It’s Neiman’s ongoing brand platform through the year, and likely to be central to the luxury retailer’s marketing in the coming years. “Make Some Noise does not have an end date,” said a Neiman’s spokeswoman. “We are assessing a three-year plan.” In addition, the fashion message has expanded to encompass a broad range of Neiman’s merchandise, from last year’s narrower focus on Cusp, the store’s contemporary department. “For over 100 years, Neiman Marcus has dressed women of style and style breeds confidence. Developing a brand platform celebrating bold women with bold voices brings inspiration to all of our customers,” said Wanda Gierhart, NMG’s senior vice president and chief marketing officer. The campaign officially relaunches March 18 with an elaborate interactive pop-up concept during the South by Southwest festival in Austin, Tex. Neiman’s has converted a house at 78 Rainey Street, in the heart of Austin’s nightlife

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Retailers Energized at Milan Fashion Week

MILAN — Alessandro Michele’s first women’s collection at Gucci energized retailers, who praised the Milan collections generally for their craftsmanship and feminine, romantic touches. Also topping Milan’s talk-o-meter was Peter Dundas’ expected exit from Emilio Pucci — and his likely surfacing at Roberto Cavalli — even though neither company has said anything. Overall, spring’s Seventies trend remained strong, although there were touches of the Eighties in some collections, while lace, patchwork, Lurex and embellishments were other major touches. The collections most praised by retailers included Gucci, Prada, Fendi, Pucci, Marni and Etro. “All of the Milan designers are taking it up a notch and they’re redefining luxury for this new digital generation,” said Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction at Holt Renfrew, who labeled the season “retro futurism” and argued that the Internet is having a disruptive effect on fashion. “I feel like they’re speaking to a new customer,” she said, pointing especially to Michele at Gucci. “When we got into the showroom, it was absolutely stunning and speaking to this new generation.” Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus, said he was “excited about the new direction at Gucci,” describing the collection as “romantic and a bit melancholic,

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.

Coach to Open Paris Flagship

PARIS — Coach is setting up shop in the City of Light. To coincide with its 75th anniversary celebrations, which begin in September, the American accessories and fashion brand this fall will open its first flagship in Paris, at 372-374 Rue Saint-Honoré. “The opening of our first flagship store in Paris is a pivotal moment for our development across Europe and demonstrative of our increased relevance in the fashion arena,” said Coach Europe president Nigel Darwin. Coach has been putting an increased focus on its European business in recent years, with France, the U.K., Italy and Germany its priority markets in the short term, Darwin told WWD. “Europe is one of the big growth areas of the business as we look forward over the coming years,” he said. “We see a very significant opportunity in the medium term,” continued Darwin, adding that the brand’s European business has already grown “from what was a couple of years ago a very small base to what is now something that has some substance.” The Paris store, which Darwin believes will complement its six existing retail accounts in the French capital, will showcase the brand’s new flagship “modern luxury” concept, designed by its creative director Stuart Vevers and Studio Sofield

Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.