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Monday, 30 March 2015

Kohl’s Kevin Mansell Sees Compensation Grow

Kevin Mansell, chairman, president and chief executive officer of Kohl’s Corp., saw his total compensation rise 18.2 percent to $9.7 million from $8.2 million in 2013, with the $1.5 million increase stemming almost entirely from a boost in his stock awards, which rose to $7.5 million last year from $6 million in the prior year. Mansell’s salary increased 1 percent, to $1.35 million from $1.34 million, and his cash bonus was up the same percentage, to $541,000 from $536,000, for cash compensation of $1.89 million versus $1.88 million in the prior year. Mansell qualified for the minimum amount of cash bonus — equivalent to 40 percent of his salary — because Kohl’s exceeded the low end of its initial earnings guidance for the year. Guidance issued in February 2014 was for earnings per share of $4.05 to $4.45 a share and the company finished fiscal 2014 with EPS of $4.24. Net income declined 2.5 percent to $867 million while sales were essentially flat at $19.02 billion. Figures for the top executives at Kohl’s were disclosed in the company’s definitive proxy, released to the Securities and Exchange Commission on Monday. While the increase in stock awards boosted Mansell’s reported income, it won’t necessarily enhance his

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Joseph Altuzarra Among SCAD Headliners

For the 10th installment of SCADstyle, the Savannah College of Art and Design has recruited Joseph Altuzarra, FEED’s Lauren Bush Lauren and Warby Parker’s Neil Blumenthal to headline some of the five days of festivities. More than 25 international style leaders have signed on for the various lectures, panel discussions and one-on-one conversations. Set to run April 12 to 16, this year’s event will also include satellite programs in Atlanta and Hong Kong. Events will include Altuzarra’s “Guide to Deconstructing the Power Suit” with Style.com’s Nicole Phelps; Lauren discussing “Cultivating a Stylish, Philanthropic Business” with Elle’s Anne Slowey, and author Dana Thomas talking about her book “Gods and Kings: The Rise and Fall of Alexander McQueen and John Galliano.” Other sessions include “Red Carpet Style: Marketing Design in a Culture of Celebrity,” with Edie Parker’s Brett Heyman, and jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth and Juan Carlos Obando talking about the ins and outs of navigating the Hollywood crowd with New York Times fashion critic Vanessa Friedman. “How to Self-Promote Your Brand Through Visual Media” will feature Wren’s Melissa Coker, fashion bloggers Garance Dore and Meagan Cignoli and jewelry designer Jennifer Fisher. Other Savannah participants will include Loeffler Randall’s Jessie Randall, Clare V’s Clare Vivier and

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Refinery29 Hires Paula Goldstein Di Principe and Anne-Marie Guarnieri

GETTING MORE REFINED: In the midst of securing what is said to be $50 million in financing, Refinery29 has hired Paula Goldstein Di Principe as fashion director and Anne-Marie Guarnieri as deputy editor, fashion, beauty and shopping. Executives at Refinery29 declined comment Monday. In addition, Connie Wang has been promoted to fashion features director from style director. Wang will zero in on long-form content, investigative reporting and profiles, and Goldstein will focus on raising Refinery29’s profile via events, influencer-led initiatives, and designer and brand relationships. They will also team to expand its fashion video development and production. Noting that Refinery29 has 22 million unique visitors a month and will be adding new editorial sections, Goldstein plans to build relationships with established designers and young up-and-coming photographers, stylists and designers. Until last August Goldstein was site director at Purple magazine’s online platform. Goldstein, who is leaving London to be primarily based in New York, will continue as the editor in chief of Voyage D’etudes, a travel-focused site that will launch in print this summer. Goldstein also previously oversaw digital development at Dazed & Confused and worked as a stylist and brand consultant. She will continue to work as a creative consultant, brand ambassador,

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Model Call: Esmeralda Seay-Reynolds

With long, teal fingerless gloves, a miniature feathered top hat and big, blue eyes poking out from beneath a pair of oversize sunglasses, Esmeralda Seay-Reynolds made quite the entrance into WWD’s Bryant Park offices. “Today I was feeling kooky and Tim Burton-esque,” explained the Next-repped model of her style. “But tomorrow I might be feeling Diana-Rigg-Sixties-Mod. It kind of bounces all over the place. I like extremes. Anything with a strong aesthetic; as long as it’s powerful. It makes [fashion] more fun.” With less than two years on the modeling circuit, Seay-Reynolds has already walked all the top runways — Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Saint Laurent, to name a few — and graced the pages of Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, i-D and W. Scoring such high-profile gigs would be a thrill for any new girl, but Seay-Reynolds seems to get more excited about what’s happening behind the scenes. She may have been raised in rural Pennsylvania, but the 17-year-old model is no typical small-town girl. Having grown up in a creative, fashion-loving family, Seay-Reynolds took fashion classes at Parsons The New School for Design while in middle school and has an almost encyclopedic knowledge of the industry. “It’s nice because

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Misha Nonoo Among Crain New York Business’ 40 Under 40

SOUTH OF FORTY: Misha Nonoo, Story’s Rachel Shechtman, BaubleBar’s Amy Jain, American Ballet Theatre’s Misty Copeland and “Humans of New York” photographer Brandon Stanton are among the picks on Crain New York Business’ 2015 40 Under 40 list. Nonoo’s husband Aditya Julka, cofounder of Paddle8, also made the cut as one of the city’s rising stars in business, as did Reddit’s Alexis Ohanian, Ogilvy & Mather’s Lauren Crampsie, Narrative’s Tricia Clarke-Stone and New Inc’s Julia Kaganskiy. Honorees will ring the closing bell on April 8 at the New York Stock Exchange, an operation headed up by yet another list-maker — Thomas Farley.

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Fall 2015 Accessories: London

WWD scouted the season’s best shoes, handbags, jewelry, eyewear and more — direct from the runways and designers’ showrooms in New York, London, Milan and Paris — to showcase here. Check back as we roll out our accessories selections throughout the week. SEE THE NEW YORK ACCESSORIES HERE >>

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ENK Vegas to Collaborate With Project

ENK Vegas and Project are about to get more intimate. This August, ENK Vegas will be combined with Project and renamed Project Women’s. The shows will continue to be held at the Mandalay Bay Convention Center as part of the MAGIC Marketplace and will run Aug. 17 to 19, and all of ENK’s initiatives, including Oasis, a special curated area, will remain in place. In 2012, Advanstar Global, parent of Project and MAGIC, acquired ENK International for $155 million. In addition to the Las Vegas show, ENK operates women’s and children’s shows in New York under the Fashion Coterie, Intermezzo and Accessorie Circuit names. Those shows are tied to their particular markets and are not impacted by this move. The combined shows will become the largest marketplace in Las Vegas for men’s and women’s advanced contemporary, premium denim, accessories, footwear and designer collections, according to Advanstar. “We’re always trying to perfect how we service retailers,” said Tommy Fazio, president of Project. “It’s been a little disjointed with all the shows and all the different names. So we’re building a really cohesive contemporary platform for men and women under the Project name.” This will help retailers navigate the shows and provide a “seamless” experience for

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Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley Launch Luxe Brand

LONDON — Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley are poised to become luxury’s latest double, launching the women’s ready-to-wear and accessories brand Hillier Bartley for fall, WWD has learned. The duo, working out of a studio in East London’s Rochelle School, presented their high-end collection to buyers in Paris during the show season in March. They will be delivering internationally to select retailers from August. The collection will include rtw, bags and accessories full of classic English references. The designers told WWD their brand has “a masculine elegance,” which makes use of Savile Row cloths, velvet, silk, merino wool and shearling across tailoring, dresses and separates. The collection will be manufactured in the U.K., with fabrics sourced predominantly from British mills. Bags will be produced outside Venice, Italy. WWD first reported earlier this month that Hillier and Bartley were pursuing a creative venture of their own amid speculation that the Marc by Marc Jacobs line was set to be assimilated into that brand’s main collection. Marc by Marc Jacobs had been designed by creative director Hillier and women’s design director Bartley since 2013. According to industry sources, the duo’s decision to launch their own label was separate from Marc Jacobs’ decision to fold Marc by

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Marquit Offers Secondary Lingerie Line

Lingerie designer Deborah Marquit is expanding her repertoire. For spring, Marquit has developed a new label, Dé Marquit, priced 30 to 50 percent below her signature collection. The first group, Ballet, will be sold this spring at stores such as Journelle and Azaleas in New York, Urban Outfitters and Soho House’s “the Store” in Berlin. “I decided to offer a secondary line, in a price range that customers are able to buy on a regular basis, with the same vision as my higher-end line, using less costly laces and trims and less complicated workmanship,” said Marquit. She said the new line would be affordable enough to be replenished often and in each season, with the same fit and similar styling as her higher-end pieces. The first-year sales projection for Dé Marquit is approximately $300,000, said Marquit. The new line, which wholesales from $20 to $60, will start with two groups, two types of fabrics and many shapes within each. Described as similar to “dancewear or athleticwear,” the line features bras and matching lingerie pieces to be coordinated and layered with one another and geared to be dependable basics, in a range of classic and fashion colors like fluorescent pink, royal blue, acid, violet

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Fiber Price Sheet: March 31, 2015

Ludovic Le Gourrièrec Leaving Façonnable

EXITING FAÇONNABLE: Ludovic Le Gourrièrec is exiting as deputy managing director of Façonnable effective today, WWD has learned. Reached by telephone, Le Gourrièrec confirmed his departure, but declined further comment. Le Gourrièrec joined Façonnable in 2013 and spearheaded a repositioning and expansion drive after installing Dublin-born designer Daniel Kearns as artistic director. Le Gourrièrec’s next move could not immediately be learned, and his successor has yet to be named. Moustapha El-Solh is chief executive officer of the Nice-based firm. Façonnable officials did not immediately respond to a request for comment. Before joining Façonnable, Le Gourrièrec headed the men’s wear division at Yves Saint Laurent in Paris, and had also worked at Lanvin and John Galliano.

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Jacquie Aiche Heading to Coachella With Accessories Capsule Collection

FESTIVAL FANCY: Jacquie Aiche is Coachella-bound. The jewelry designer has teamed with Gillian Rose Kern and Laura Hall of the lingerie brand For Love & Lemons on a capsule collection of festival-ready accessories. The collection consists of body chains, finger bracelets, anklets, armbands, ear cuffs, rings, toe rings, chokers and bolo ties. Made up of diverse materials — gold, diamonds, leather and bone — the collection is geared to be worn with For Love & Lemons’ lace-heavy festival collection. The line hits retail on Wednesday — just in time for the first weekend of Coachella — and will be sold on both brands’ Web sites, as well as at select boutiques. Prices range from $275 to $2,625.

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San Francisco Equity Partners Acquires Japonesque

JAPONESQUE DEAL: San Francisco Equity Partners is building its beauty portfolio with the acquisition of Japonesque. Terms of the deal, which takes effect today, were not disclosed. But industry sources estimate that Japonesque generates retail sales south of $25 million. Japonesque was founded in 1984 and is a company with a deep heritage of creating beauty products inspired by the professional makeup tools used in Kabuki theater in Japan. The product line includes makeup brushes, eyelash curlers, tweezers, makeup cases and other beauty accessories. The company recently launched color cosmetics, which can be found at retailers in the prestige beauty, drug and mass channels. With the purchase, SFEP, which already holds in its consumer stable brands such as Yes To, Method Home and ICU Eyewear, is looking to rev up and fully capitalize on Japonesque’s distribution channels. “We see significant opportunity for growth on both the Japonesque-branded tools and recently launched color cosmetics line in the beauty channel, particularly at Ulta, which is a big opportunity,” said Scott Potter, managing partner at SFEP. “We also see significant growth opportunities in taking the company’s “category management” approach to managing the beauty tools and accessories program for large drugstore and mass retailers to additional customers,

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Net-a-porter Sponsoring San Francisco Film Society’s Awards Night

BY THE BAY: In a confluence of fashion, film, technology and San Francisco society, Net-a-porter is partnering with the San Francisco Film Society’s annual Awards Night April 27, sponsoring the evening and its VIP cocktail party the weekend before the event. “The Bay Area is an important market for Net-a-porter and we’re looking forward to fostering a dialogue between entertainment, technology and fashion via this cultural platform,” said Heather Kaminetsky, NAP’s vice president of marketing and sales for the Americas. In San Francisco fashion/tech/social circles, it helps to have a Traina or two involved. Thus, the VIP party will be held at film producer Todd Traina and his wife Katie Traina’s Pacific Heights home. The couple are also the honorary chairmen of the Awards Night, which is cochaired by Christine Aylward, Heidi Castelein and Victoria Raiser.

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